zlog: Replace usages of env_logger in tests with zlog (#31436)

Also fixes:
https://github.com/zed-industries/zed/pull/31400#issuecomment-2908165249

Release Notes:

- N/A *or* Added/Fixed/Improved ...

crates/remote_server/Cargo.toml

@@ -86,6 +86,7 @@ language_model = { workspace = true, features = ["test-support"] }
 lsp = { workspace = true, features=["test-support"] }
 unindent.workspace = true
 serde_json.workspace = true
+zlog.workspace = true
 
 [build-dependencies]
 cargo_toml.workspace = true

crates/remote_server/src/remote_editing_tests.rs

@@ -1663,9 +1663,7 @@ pub async fn init_test(
 }
 
 fn init_logger() {
-    if std::env::var("RUST_LOG").is_ok() {
-        env_logger::try_init().ok();
-    }
+    zlog::init_test();
 }
 
 fn build_project(ssh: Entity<SshRemoteClient>, cx: &mut TestAppContext) -> Entity<Project> {